Compost is a very environmentally safe source of nitrogen because compost-nitrogen is in organic form and must be mineralized before it has the potential to leach and to contaminate water supplies (such as groundwater). Mineralization (the conversion of organic forms of an element into inorganic forms) occurs slowly in natural systems.

Compost is sometimes referred to as "black gold" because it recycles leaves, food scraps and grass clippings into a perfect food and organic mulch for all our plants.

For years I bought sack after sack of sterilized cow manure every summer. Compost is also a source of plant nutrients but far better.

Compost is made by billions of microbes (fungi, bacteria, etc.) that digest the yard and kitchen wastes (food) you provide for them. If the pile is cool enough, worms, insects, and their relatives will help out the microbes.

Compost is formed in nature all the time as plants and animals die and decompose. This natural compost is generally called humus. it is the perfect thing to spread around when you are creating a new garden, seeding a new lawn area, or planting a new tree. Compost can be sprinkled around plants during the growing season or used as a mulch in your perennial gardens.

Soil conditions govern crop production and crop quality, and in turn influence both animal and human health. This was recognised by the founders of the modern organic movement in the mid-20th century. Soil with 7.7 percent organic matter contains 2.5 pounds of carbon per square foot, this holds the carbon out of the atmosphere. If everyone did this it would help counter the build up of greenhouse gasses in the atmosphere.

Weeds are fine, but keep seed heads out to avoid re-introducing the weeds when the compost is used. These materials should go in the trash and be removed to avoid re-contamination.

Weed killers and other pesticides break down at various rates. If you use treated grass clippings, the breakdown of these chemicals should be at least as fast as breakdown in the soil, but observe the instructions if it says that the first few weeks of mowings after application should be sent to landfill. Weed seeds which remain active even after composting are a cause of concern, only if the pile does not reach its optimum temperature during compsting. For this reason I recommend your compost be finished before using in any capacity.

Weed the garden, mow the lawn, empty the kitchen bucket! Mix in some straw, woody prunings, scrunched up cardboard packaging eg cereal boxes are good as well. This helps create air spaces within the heap.

Gardeners all know compost is terrific stuff. But there's something even better than plain old compost, and that's compost tea, and worm compost (known as vermiculture).

Finished compost will look like good rich black soil and have a pleasant earthy smell. Compost can be used as a mulch or soil amendment and can be added liberally to your garden.

Finished compost is nutritious enough to use as a soil amendment, buffering the pH and helping to retain water in the soil. It can cool the soil's surface, and help mitigate erosion.

Depending upon seasonal temperatures, a well-built, well-tended pile generally yields finished compost in 2 weeks to 4 months.

Peat-free compost is available in many garden centres, and it is the natural choice for any green gardener as it avoids the damage and destruction of lowland bogs, from peat extraction for the peat based products. Peat bogs (especially lowland bogs) take thousands of years to form and support fragile eco-systems, which will be lost if we continue to destroy them.

Ideally start your compost bin in spring and for best results combine a mixture of soft, green, nitrogen-rich material and dry, brown, carbon-rich material in roughly even quantities. The main rule is not to let one material dominate the heap.

Ideally, good compost should fall within a pH range between 7 - 8.

Providing a mixture of high and low C:N materials usually results in better or faster decomposition than too much of either material. Providing "heavy feeder" plants such as tomatoes, broccoli, corn, and squash monthly with half an inch of compost results in great produce.

Providing a mixture of high and low C:N materials usually results in better or faster decomposition than too much of either material. Providing "heavy feeder" plants such as tomatoes, broccoli, corn, and squash monthly with half an inch of compost results in great produce. Note: If you make compost with plant cuttings or grass clippings that have been sprayed with pesticides, do not use the compost on edible crops.

Turning your compost also prevents the growth of mildew. You should strive to turn your compost about once a week, but it’s not a big deal if you can only manage it every two or three weeks. Turn the pile or use a mechanical aeration system to ensure ventilation. Narrow, short piles generally are the exception and have adequate ventilation.

Make your garden compost pile by adding layers of green waste, which gives your compost nitrogen, and then a layer of brown waste (wood material and leaves) to give your compost carbon. A good rule of thumb for adding your layers of material is 2-3 parts brown waste to 1 part green waste.

Adding lime (calcium carbonate) generally is not recommended because it causes ammonium nitrogen to be lost to the atmosphere as ammonia gas. Not only does this cause odors, it also depletes nitrogen that is better kept in the compost for future use by plants. Adding food waste to the pile, instad of to the bin, can drastically reduce the size of your weekly rubbish bag.

To plant a tree you would add about 30% compost by volume to the soil as you use the material in the garden and mix thoroughly outside the hole, with the native soil. Place the tree into the hole and use the compost amended soil mixture as a backfill around the root ball. Adjust by adding a little garden lime to cut down on the acidity.